18 Artificial Grass Installation Mistakes (and How to Solve Them)

18 Artificial Grass Installation Mistakes (and How to Solve Them)


artificial grass installation mistakes

Many people are surprised to learn just how much is involved when it comes to installing artificial grass.

That’s why we usually recommend that you enlist the help of a professional to install your artificial lawn.

Their experience and expertise will result in a longer lasting, better performing fake lawn.

But, understandably, many people choose to install their own artificial grass to keep costs down.

That’s fine as long as you learn as much as possible about the different techniques used and the tools required to carry out an adequate installation.

To help you avoid some of the pitfalls we regularly see from customers attempting to install their own fake lawns, we have compiled a list of the most common installation mistakes and, more importantly, how to solve them.



Mistake 1: Insufficient excavations

Unfortunately laying artificial grass directly on top of soil or existing grass just will not work. The finished result would be an extremely uneven looking lawn.

The key to long-lasting artificial grass is just as much about getting the groundworks right as it is choosing the right fake grass.

We recommend removing a minimum of 75mm (3 inches) below the finished height of your lawn, which includes removing all existing grass and weeds.

For poor draining areas, we recommend excavating to 100mm (4 inches).

To check your excavated depth, pull a string line tight across your lawn and measure between the string line and the subgrade/soil level.

Use a turf cutter to remove your existing lawn quickly and easily

To make the excavation process as quick and as easy as possible, we highly recommend that you hire a turf cutter from your local tool hire shop. The cutting blade can be adjusted to remove your existing turf in easy to handle rolls.

Solution: Excavate to a minimum depth of 75mm.



Mistake 2: Failure to excavate soft spots in the subgrade

After excavating your existing lawn, check the subgrade/soil for soft spots.

Soft spots are areas in which the ground begins to sink under your body weight. You can test this by walking over the exposed earth.

If you find your feet sinking into the ground you should excavate the offending area and backfill with sub-base material.

Failure to remove soft spots may potentially result in certain areas of your lawn sinking.

Solution: Remove any soft spots during the excavation works. Remember it’s better to remove too much than not enough.



Mistake 3: Failure to install a weed membrane

Without a weed membrane, there’s a strong possibility that you’ll get weeds growing through your fake lawn.

One of the main benefits of having artificial grass is that you no longer have to deal with weeds.


To prevent weed growth, we strongly recommend installing a weed membrane to the subgrade. The below picture shows what happens if a weed membrane is not installed to the subgrade.

fake grass installation mistakes

The potential result of not installing a weed membrane to the existing earth.

As an extra line of defence, we also recommend installing a second layer of weed membrane on top of the laying course, directly beneath your artificial grass.

Solution: Install a weed membrane to the subgrade (earth) to prevent weed growth.



Mistake 4: Inadequate sub-base installation

When installing artificial grass there are two layers of aggregates that need to be installed prior to laying the grass.

The first of these is the sub-base. The sub-base will give your artificial lawn the strength to handle the weight of foot traffic.

Typically, we recommend a minimum of 50mm of MOT Type 1 to make up the sub-base. For poor draining gardens you may wish to consider installing 50mm of 12mm granite or limestone chippings to form a permeable sub-base.

A permeable sub base consisting of 12mm granite chippings.

For areas that will be subjected to heavy use you may want to consider installing a 75mm sub-base.

To calculate how much sub-base material you’ll need to order to carry out your artificial grass installation, please visit our artificial grass calculators page.

Solution: Install a minimum of 50mm of MOT Type 1 as a sub-base.



Mistake 5: Using sharp sand as a laying course

The next layer of aggregate that should be installed is known as the laying course.

The laying course provides a flat, smooth, even surface for the grass to lie on top of.

It’s vitally important that you install a laying course that will be capable of withstanding foot traffic and rainfall.

Unfortunately, many installers still use compacted sharp sand to form the sub-base, but the problem with using sand is that it doesn’t bind together particularly well, causing movement of the laying course, which results in an uneven lawn.

The other issue with sharp sand is that eventually it will wash away.

Artificial grass has perforated holes in the backing which allow water to drain through the surface of the turf. This water will gradually wash away the sharp sand beneath your fake grass and, again, will result in your lawn developing an uneven appearance.

Artificial Grass Drainage Hole

We recommend that you install a laying course to a depth of 25mm that consists of either 0-6mm granite or limestone dust, sometimes referred to as grano (use whatever you can source locally).

Granite Dust Laying Course

Granite or limestone dust forms a much stronger, harder wearing laying course that provides a far superior finish to sharp sand.

Solution: Install a 25mm laying course consisting of granite or limestone dust.



Mistake 6: Inadequate compaction of sub-base and laying course

After levelling the sub-base the next step, before spreading the laying course material, is to ensure that the sub-base is adequately compacted.

The only way to do this is with a vibrating plate compactor. If you are conducting a DIY installation, you’ll find that you can hire one from your local tool hire shop at relatively little expense.

Use a vibrating plate compactor to compact the aggregate

When using the plate compactor ensure that the entire area is thoroughly compacted, by moving it up and down and side to side across your lawn.

Failure to do so will result in an uneven finish to the surface of your lawn.

And don’t be too hasty to take the whacker plate back to the hire shop as you’ll need to use it again on the laying course.

Bonus tip: you’ll find it easier if you use your garden hose to lightly sprinkle water onto the granite or limestone dust before compaction to prevent the dust from becoming airborne.

Solution: Compact both the sub-base and laying course with a vibrating plate compactor.



Mistake 7: Uneven laying course

Not only is it important to use the correct form of aggregate and to ensure proper compaction, but the final step when installing the laying course is to ensure that the surface is perfectly flat prior to laying the grass.

artificial grass installation problem

A flat laying course.

You’ll find that after running a plate compactor over the laying course it will leave minor indentations in the aggregate.

Before laying the grass, it’s vital that you flatten out any ridges or bumps. This can be done with a plastic float.

A plastic float used to iron out any bumps or ridges in the laying course.

If you don’t, you’ll see these through the artificial grass as it will lie flat against them and take their shape.

Solution: To avoid any unsightly ridges or bumps showing through your artificial grass, use a float to ‘iron them out’ before laying the artificial turf.



Mistake 8: Failure to install an appropriate edge restraint

Another common mistake we see is the failure to install an edge restraint.

Edge restraints are an important aspect of artificial grass installation for two reasons.

Firstly, they retain the sub-base and laying course, preventing the lawn from collapsing at the edges, and secondly, an edge restraint will give you an anchoring point to which you can secure the perimeter of the grass.

When it comes to choosing the edging material for your lawn you have several options.

steel edging for artificial grass

A metal edging system for artificial grass

Treated timber, treated sleepers, concrete edging or a metal edging system will all do the required job.

The perimeter of the lawn can be secured using either galvanised nails (if using a timber edging) or artificial grass adhesive such as Aquabond or Multipurpose Adhesive.

Solution: Use a secure edging system capable of retaining the sub-base and laying course.



Mistake 9: Failure to allow the artificial grass to acclimatise

Another frequent problem we see with artificial grass installation is the failure to allow the artificial grass to acclimatise.

Many people forget this important step.

The only viable way to ship artificial grass is in the form of rolls.

After being rolled up tightly on a cardboard core, you’ll need to unroll the fake turf across your new lawn and leave it for a minimum of 24 hours to ‘acclimatise’. The acclimatisation process will make the grass far easier to install.

When first unrolling your artificial grass it’s perfectly normally for there to be minor ridges and ripples. This is due to the hard-wearing backing holding its shape.

But after leaving the grass unrolled for 24 hours these ridges or bumps will naturally fall out, making it far easier to lay the grass without any undulations.

Solution: Unroll your artificial grass on your lawn and allow it to acclimatise for a minimum of 24 hours.



Mistake 10: Pile is facing in the wrong direction

When you look closely, all artificial grass has a slight pile direction, i.e. the fibres of the turf are all pointing in same direction.

Libra by NeoGrass Main Product Picture

When joining two pieces of artificial grass together it’s extremely important to ensure that the pile direction on both rolls of turf is facing the same way.

Usually it’s quite easy to spot as the grass will look a slightly different shade of green.

If you don’t face the grass the correct way, you’ll always be able to see where the join between the two pieces of grass is.

A further tip is to ensure that the pile direction is facing towards the angle the lawn will be viewed from the most. This usually means the pile facing towards your house.

This is because this side is generally considered to be the best viewing angle.

Solution: When joining two rolls of artificial grass, ensure the pile is facing in the same direction on each roll to avoid a visible join.



Mistake 11: Joins are cut incorrectly

Artificial grass is supplied in rolls of 2m and 4m width. Due to the shape of your lawn, you may need to join multiple rolls of grass together to cover it.

For the inexperienced, this is where potential problems can occur if you do not follow the correct process.

Firstly, when you look at your roll of artificial grass, you’ll notice a strip of membrane attached to the outside edge of the roll, known in the trade as the ‘selvedge’.

The selvedge is used to feed the primary backing through the stitching machine.

It is imperative that the selvedge is removed before attempting to glue two pieces of grass together.

Further still, to ensure an invisible join, you’ll need to count 3 stitches in from the edge of the roll and cut close to the fourth stitch.

cutting an artificial grass join

When cutting an artificial grass join, count 3 stitches in from the edge of the roll and cut close to the fourth stitch.


This is because the fibres of the outer edge are frayed outwards and will be impossible to blend in naturally with another roll of grass.

Our rolls are supplied at approximately 4.1m and 2.05m to allow for the removal of the outer edge.

If you don’t get it right first time, you may be able to cut a couple more stitches if you have enough width to play with.

Solution: To ensure an invisible join, cut 3 stitches off the edge of your artificial grass.



Mistake 12: Not securing joins sufficiently well

When joining two pieces of artificial grass it’s extremely important to ensure that they are properly secured together, to prevent them from coming apart.

The best way to do this is using joining tape and specialist artificial grass adhesive, such as the multipurpose adhesive manufactured by Envirostik.

artificial grass glue

Secure your joins using an adhesive that’s up to the job.

Some manufacturers recommend pinning the joins together using galvanized U-pins, but in our testing and experience, this will not be sufficient to form a strong, invisible join.

Solution: Use joining tape and specialist adhesive to join two pieces of grass.



Mistake 13: Joining tape is used incorrectly

Joining tape is supplied in lengths up to 100m and is placed between the two pieces of turf.

Joining tape is 300mm wide and firstly, it’s important to ensure that it is rolled out so that each piece of grass will make contact with the tape and adhere to it.

artificial grass join

You’ll also need to make sure that you have the correct side of the joining tape facing upwards, otherwise the adhesive will not bond correctly.

You’ll also notice that both sides of the tape have different textures. One side is smooth and shiny, and the other is rough. To use the joining tape correctly, ensure that the rough side is facing UP, as this is the side you’ll need to apply the glue to.

If you apply the glue to the smooth side, the adhesive will not adequately bond the artificial grass to the joining tape.

Solution: Before applying the adhesive, ensure the rough side of the joining tape is facing upwards.



Mistake 14: Using too much or not enough adhesive

When securing joins, its also important to use the correct quantities of glue.

Use a notched flooring trowel to apply and spread approximately 2mm of adhesive to the entire width of the joining tape.

Use a notched flooring trowel to apply an even coverage of adhesive.

Using excessive glue may result in the adhesive leeching onto the fibres, making it difficult to remove.

Too little adhesive and your fake grass won’t bond correctly.

To ensure proper bonding between the adhesive and the joining tape, place some heavy objects along the joins, for example, the bags of kiln-dried sand that you should have on site ready to be used as the infill.

To calculate how much adhesive you’ll need for your artificial grass joins you can use our handy calculator, found here.

Bonus tip: if you get adhesive on the plastic fibres, use a small amount of white spirit to remove it, before it sets.

Solution: Apply a 2mm layer of adhesive to the entire width of the joining tape.



Mistake 15: Failure to secure the edges of your lawn

We spoke earlier in the article about the need to install an edging to the perimeter of your lawn.

Not only will this retain the aggregates installed under your fake lawn, but it will also give you something to secure the perimeter of the grass to.

Failure to do this will result in your grass lifting at the edges.

For metal or concrete edging systems you’ll need to secure the edges using specialist joining adhesive or galvanised U-pins.

For this purpose we recommend using 330ml cartridges of Aquabond, rather than tubs of glue, as you’ll be able to apply it more accurately using a gun applicator.

If you have chosen to edge your lawn with timber or sleepers, you can fix the perimeter of the grass to the timber using galvanised nails.

Solution: Secure the perimeter of your lawn using either galvanised nails, U-pins or adhesive.



Mistake 16: Failure to install a sand infill

This is a hotly debated topic in the online world. Should you or shouldn’t you install a sand dressing/infill?

The answer to this is categorically yes.

There are several reasons for this:

-It adds ballast to the grass, preventing movement and rippling

-It supports the artificial fibres

-It regulates the temperature of the grass

-It increases fire resistance

-It improves and regulates drainage

-It prevents static

You may hear some people claiming that it is unnecessary or that they have a ‘non-infill’ artificial grass, but unfortunately this type of product does not exist.

It’s just marketing spin to make a product seem cheaper to install.

The additional cost of installing a sand infill is certainly worth it. You can pick up bags of kiln-dried sand from your local DIY store for just a few pounds each.

You may find our calculator on this page useful in working out just how much sand your artificial lawn will require.

For further information on using a sand infill, please read our previous article, ‘Should You Use a Sand Infill for Artificial Grass? We Reveal the Truth’.

Solution: Install a sand infill to your artificial lawn.



Mistake 17: Failure to brush the turf

The final task when installing artificial grass is to brush the turf with either a stiff broom or a mechanical brush. This enables the sand infill to fall to the bottom of the pile, so it sits on and helps protect the latex backing. It also means that the fibres will stand upright, making the grass appear even more realistic.

Artificial Grass Brush

Use either a mechanical brush or stiff broom to brush your artificial grass to complete the installation.

If you don’t brush the turf, then the sand infill will sit on top of the fibres, flattening them down. It also means that the protection against sharp objects – including dog claws, if you have a pet that likes to dig – will be lost, meaning the latex backing might be lacerated.

Bonus tip: make sure you don’t use a brush with metal prongs, as this will damage the fibres.

Solution: When you’ve applied the sand infill, brush the turf to ensure it falls to the bottom of the pile.



Mistake 18: Choosing poor quality artificial turf

Our last mistake isn’t really an installation mistake, but is potentially a devastating error all the same.

Choosing the best artificial grass isn’t an easy task, especially when you consider the vast array of pile heights, colours, materials and manufacturing processes used to make artificial grass.

Like anything, you get what you pay for and if you want a realistic artificial grass that will stand the test of time, then you’re best steering well clear of the cheaper products on the market.

Solution: To avoid disappointment, choose a good quality artificial grass. To help you choose, please read our previous articles, 7 Important Considerations When Choosing the Best Artificial Grass’ and The Ultimate Guide to Choosing Artificial Grass for Your Garden Lawn’. They are packed with useful advice.




As we said at the start of this article, you’ll get a far better, longer lasting finish to your artificial lawn if it is installed by an experienced, professional installer.

The additional costs involved in using a pro may be a worthwhile investment if you consider that your artificial lawn is likely to last longer and perform better.

A professional will also take away a lot of the potential stress that can be involved in installing artificial grass.

They’ll be able to handle everything from start to finish and advise you on the best products to suit your needs.

If you would like to find your nearest NeoGrass approved installer, you can do so by entering your postcode here.

But if you are going to go ahead with a DIY installation, then hopefully you’ve found this article useful in helping you to avoid potential pitfalls.

DIYers may also find our previous article, ‘22 Essential Tools for Installing Artificial Grass’, helpful, as you’ll learn about the tools you’ll need to carry out your installation.

If you would like to request free samples of our range of artificial grass, then fill out the form found here.

If you have any other questions regarding the installation of artificial grass, please leave them below and we’ll answer them for you.



117 Responses to “18 Artificial Grass Installation Mistakes (and How to Solve Them)”

    • Neo Grass

      Hi Trevor,

      Many thanks for your question.

      Yes when joining two pieces of grass together you will need to cut 3 stitches off BOTH pieces of grass. Otherwise the joint will be visible.

      Hope that helps and if you need anything clarifying please let us know

      Kind Regards,
      Will – NeoGrass

  1. Hi! Apart from deciding on the right artificial grass, my concern is the lawn edging trim finish. I want a completely natural look to the lawn and have decided to use a minimal 4 x1″ treated timber border. Not sure if I would nail the grass to the top of the timber itself or just inside the perimeter. It would be a shame to do a lot of hard work as a DIYer then spoil the finish! Great website…..really useful articles Thanks!

    • Neo Grass

      Hi there,
      It all depends really on whether you want to see the timber border or not??
      If you would still like to see it then you would need to nail INSIDE the perimeter. If you don’t want to see the timber edging then you would nail on top.

  2. I laid my turf on complacted granite and everything in that sense was fine, when I looked at methods of how to add the sand this was where I ran into issues, the majority of videos and instructions I saw advised that you spread the weed free sand on the turf walking side to side, there are areas of my lawn which feel much harder and there are areas where the grass is upright as the sand has kind of clumped And not spread when it’s been brushed, it’s fallen below the pile but it hasn’t moved around, so there are areas which I’d like to remove this from, I’ve tried everything even using a dyson and it doesn’t really lift much sand up, do you have any ad ice on how to resolve this?

    • Neo Grass

      Unfortunately it sounds as though the sand was applied maybe when it was a bit damp or it rained soon after. The best way to get it spread out more evenly now is to brush it with a very stiff broom.
      The best way to spread the sand is to either use a seed sowing machine or scatter it by hand, rather like you’re feeding chickens.

  3. Hi my astro has been down 12mths but it looks bumpy in areas the ground is smooth underneath how can i sort it. Its just one circle piece in middle surrounded by slate

    • Neo Grass

      Morning Phil,

      The bumps could be down to a number of reasons.

      I’d firstly recommend that you lift up the artificial turf and ensure that the sub base and laying course are as they should be (i.e. flat and adequately compacted).

      If all seems ok, it may be that the grass needs stretching and/or a sand infill applied if there isn’t already.

      I’d highly recommend checking out this article which will help you to remove creases from your lawn.

      Kind Regards,


  4. our artificial grass was installed some years ago and we have a rotary clothes line in one corner which has bent in the wind and weight of washing, can we lift the corner to cement a holding pole for the rotary to sit in which will enable me to remove the rotary when not in use, if so how do we go about this, thanks

    • Neo Grass

      Morning Pat,
      If it is just a small hole that needs to be made then you should be able to cut the hole with a good sharp stanley knife without the need to life the grass at all.

  5. Neal Sedgwick

    Hi I’m installing artificial grass to a block paving boarder. Do you have any diagrams of how the cement bed needs to look for me to glue the grass edge to. Thanks

    • Neo Grass

      Hi Neal,

      Thanks for your question.

      Fortunately we do. The below picture shows a concrete ‘hanuch’ that the perimeter of your lawn can be secured to using Aquabond or a two-part adhesive. Your haunch should be approximately 100mm to allow a wide enough surface to apply the glue to.

      Concrete Haunching for Artificial Grass

      If you have any more questions regarding your installation, please feel free to ask.

      Kind Regards,


  6. Hi, very informative site. I have recently had Astro turf installed and the joint is clearly visible, I can’t help thinking it was not cut back prior to laying as you advise. Is there anything I can do now to hide the joint? Many thanks

    • Neo Grass

      Hi Chris,

      Thanks very much for your question.

      The visible join could be down to number of things, so difficult to advise without actually seeing it. Unfortunately, the best option would be to simply get hold of another roll(s) of grass and re-do the join.

      Of course, that would be an expensive option, to either the contractor (if you wanted to go down that route) or unfortunately, yourself.

      There is an alternative however. I will assume that they have secured the join with joining tape and adhesive. Joining tape is 300mm in width. What it is possible to do is cut out the joining tape along with the adhesive, essentially removing around 150mm from the edge of each piece of grass. The join can then be re-done following correct procedures.

      Of course, to do this, you’ll have to shift the two pieces of grass to ensure they meet. This will mean pulling in the grass 150mm from both edges (or 300mm from one edge), so you’d be reducing the size of your lawn and there would be some making good to be done to the edges. All in all, it would probably be a fair bit of work depending upon the size of your lawn, but the only financial cost should be the cost of new joining tape and adhesive.

      Unfortunately there’s no quick and easy fix to this one.

      If you have any further questions or need me to clarify further let me know.

      Kind Regards,


  7. Steven kennell

    We’ve laid our own turf and the guy doing it insisted on sharp sand for the sub-base and infill. It’s actually worked out not too bad, it dips a bit in places but it’s kinda fine. The garden gets a pounding from ur own kids all the kids in the street playing football on it etc. The issue we have is that when brushed with a pour own mechanical brush we get ridges in the grass where lines of grass kinda clump together in grass mohecans. You ca usually only see them when looking at one direction. I’m wondering, is this down to the way I’m brushing the grass or the way we fitted it?

    • Neo Grass

      Afternoon Steven,
      Sorry for the delay in coming back to you.
      Unfortunately we haven’t ever experienced this kind of thing before. It sounds as though it may be an issue with the fibres on the artificial grass so we would recommend that you go back to the supplier of the grass and let them have pictures of the problem.

  8. Corinne

    I had artificial turf installed three years ago and large mushrooms, the size of grapefruits in diameter have grown under the turf. Also, there are numerous “wrinkles” in the turf akin to poor stretching seen in a carpet. There are also depressions in various places. Do you have any remedies. The installer won’t return to fix these problems as he promised he would should there be issues. Thanks for any help.

    • Neo Grass

      Hi Corinne,
      Firstly, it sounds as though there wasn’t a final weed membrane layer put down before the artificial turf was laid.
      Secondly, if you have wrinkles then this will definitely need stretching out again and refixing.
      If there are depressions appearing under the grass it could be that the installer used Sharp sand as the final layer as opposed to granite dust, which would explain the movement.
      I would have though that the installer should have a duty to come and look at the problems concerned. It’s worth having a look on their website or facebook page to see what their terms and conditions are.

    • Neo Grass

      Hi there Jamie,
      It could be down to a couple of things.
      The pile is not of a good standard and therefore prone to making a lot of noise or if you have had a sand infill put down it may be that too much sand has been applied.
      Ideally you need to contact whoever installed the grass and discuss it with them.

  9. Gemma Harris

    Hi there,
    We’ve recently had artificial grass laid and I have put too much sand on top of the grass. When standing on the grass and looking down you can see the sand. Also, our once even flat surface with the grass laid is now bumpy due to the piles of sand stuck on top of the turf. How can we get the sand to fall evenly and fix this problem please?
    Many thanks,

    • Neo Grass

      Morning Gemma,
      Sorry to hear of your problem.
      When applying the Silica Sand it’s best to use a mechanical seed spreader or failing that you need to apply it as though you are throwing chicken feed, i.e taking a handful and throwing it out and over the grass for it to fall more naturally.
      As this has already been applied we would now suggest getting a really good stiff broom and going over the whole of the grass, brushing the pile in the opposite direction. This should help to spread the clumps of sand out more evenly.

  10. Hi, We have had artificial grass in our back garden for around 4 months now. We know that the installer put a sub base down and used a grano dust product (as we have a dog and didn’t want to use sand) , he also used a weed membrane so all the right materials as you should. The week we picked to have the lawn laid was awful and most of the week was really rainy (we went away so the dog didn’t distrub things). when we got back the grass was great and a little bumpy, but we thought things should settle. However today and after more rain over the last week, the bumps seem more noticable. I presume the chap compacted the different layers under the lawn but perhaps the rain affected this during the laying process? Is there any way we can remedy this ? Advice greatly received.

    • Neo Grass

      Morning Clare,
      There could be a couple of things here. Firstly, it could be that the ground isn’t draining as well as it should do and is prone to holding water when a large amount of rain comes down in a short space of time.
      This would then cause the water to pool a little bit underneath the grass, which would then cause the granite dust to move underneath and form small clumps.
      Secondly, it may be that both the sub base and the grano dust layer needed to be compacted more, but really you need to go back to your installer and discuss this issue with them.
      Ideally you will need to get the grass lifted to see exactly what is causing the problem underneath.
      We have included a link here which explains all about the importance of compaction https://neograss.co.uk/compaction-installing-artificial-lawn/

  11. Hi what are your thoughts about crowning? I’ve read leave 80mm higher in the centre and allow turf to run down for natural look and settlement over time. My garden is naturally flat anyway. Should I still do this? Thanks.

    • Neo Grass

      Morning Adam,
      Ideally, if it possible to crown, then this is the ideal way to install, it’s just that the trend over the last couple of years is to have a dead flat surface.
      If however you don’t want to go to the effort of crowing, then provided the sub base and granite dust layer have been suitably compacted, then you shouldn’t get too many settlement issues.

  12. Elizabeth

    Hi there, i’ve just had my artificial grass installed 2 days ago and have 2 concerns;

    although the turf was longer than the chosen area to install over, it was not as wide so, the gardener had cut the extra length to install onto the sides. Unfortunately, he did not install so the grass pile was in the same direction so there is now a clear line where both sides meet. I have tried to bring both edges as close together as possible and blend in with a hard brush but, the line is still clearly visible. Is there a way to rectify this, possibly without lifting the turf?

    Secondly, he did not install any sand at the end however, the grass still looks real and feels soft. Should i anticipate this to get worse over time?
    Many thanks,

    • Neo Grass

      Morning Elizabeth,
      Unfortunately, if the installer has not laid the second piece of grass to match the pile direction of the other piece of grass, then it should come up and be relaid, as it will never look right.
      We do always recommend finishing the lawn with a layer of the Kiln Dried Silica Sand. We have included a link here which tells you why it is important https://neograss.co.uk/sand-infill-artificial-grass/.
      If you are interested in purchasing the sand we now stock this. If you are local to us in Essex we can deliver any quantity required for £6.99/bag. If you are further away it is a minimum of 10 bags on a pallet which comes to £133.86 (incl VAT). If you go on to the product page on our website https://neograss.co.uk/product/artificial-grass-kiln-dried-silica-sand-infill-25kg/ there is a calculator which lets you work out how much would be required.

  13. I have just had my front lawn laid with Tiger turf. It required a join in the middle. Each side of the join is a different shade to the other. and very noticeable from one side. The installer called back and spray warm water on one side then brushed it back and forth. He says it will eventually blend n in months. What is your adivce

    • Neo Grass

      Good afternoon Tricia,
      We can’t really answer for the supplier of your turf but from our own point of view we always ensure that when a join is needed to be done then both pieces of grass come from the same COLOUR BATCH. Each roll of grass we have produced has a colour batch reference.
      We would suggest you ask them to check that the two pieces were from the same colour batch.

  14. Thanks for previous reply. Just had one more question. Any problems with putting weed membrane between MOT base and Granite dust layer? Will the grano still bind well and not cause lumpiness?

  15. Nick Gould

    Hello I’ve messed up I think, I’ve put down 4 tonnes of mot type 1 compacted then 3 ton of sand and compacted it now I’m about to lay the artificial grass I’m reading sand is not the best what shall I do now I’ve put it all down thanks

    • Neo Grass

      Morning Nick,
      Ideally it is always best to use either Granite Dust (Grano) or Limestone Dust rather than sand. If you think of the nature of sand, when it is very dry there is the risk of the sand moving and then when there is a lot of water passing through then there is also risk of the sand clumping and forming lumps and bumps.
      If it is at all possible to remove as much of the sand as you can and then replace with either of the above products then it would produce a much longer lasting compacted surface for you.

  16. Claire mitchell

    Just had artificial grass laid during heavy rain. The grass appears uneven,lumpy and really crunchy when walked on. The installers told me this should settle in 24-48 hrs however I’m not convinced the level of uneveness will become smooth??

  17. How far below the concrete edging should you put the grass base? I had mine at 3/4″ but that seems too low. I want smooth walking path from concrete to grass. Should I do 1/2″ or even less? My grass is pretty long (1.75″)
    Thanks for your help!

      • Thanks for the reply! I’m sorry I wasn’t clear. I meant how far below the concrete patio next to the grass should I put the grass. I have a patio next to the grass and I want the grass at the same level as the patio. If I put it too low there will be a step and if I put it flush with the concrete edge you will see the edge of the grass. I hope that is more clear. I have the grass 3/4″ below the concrete edging now, but it seems a bit low. I’m trying to avoid a bump or tripping hazard if you step on the patio edge and the grass at the same time.. Thanks!

        • Neo Grass

          Hi again Jeff,
          If you are fixing the grass by using adhesive directly on to the patio egde, which we assume has a concrete haunching, then you wouldn’t be able to see any edges of the grass at all.

  18. Mehmet Mustafa

    Hi, I want to put some artificial grass on a wall outside under my veranda. Under the veranda is protected from rain. Is there any advice you can give to do this ? What is the best way to secure the grass to the wall ? any info would be highly appreciated.

    • Neo Grass

      Hi Mehmet,
      It is fine to attach artificial grass to a walled area.
      The best way to fix it is to use an adhesive that we sell called EnviroStik.
      Depending on the area concerned we sell it in 5kg or 10kg Tubs. Pricing can be found on our website.

    • Neo Grass

      Hi Teresa,

      It sounds as though they haven’t banged the nails down far enough. You shouldn’t be able to see any nail heads through the fibres of the turf.
      We recommend placing them every couple of feet.

  19. Hi, i am about the install my grass if its going up to decking on front and paving on right side, and was wondering will i need to install a border for the right side and back? also the hardcore base has been wacked already and sand on top.

    • Neo Grass

      Hi Jordan,
      Ideally a small concrete haunching should have been installed where you were butting up to concrete, which you can then adhere the grass to.
      Kind regards,

  20. Hey There!

    I have had turf installed for quite some time, and I have an area drain under my turf area that has slowly depressed, likely due to water flow from rain and water play. What would the process be to inject something into the ground to infill without destroying my turf? And what would you recommend I infill it with?

    • Neo Grass

      Hi Cory,
      Unfortunately the best thing you can do is peel the grass back just past the area that has depressed and refill it with a sub base build up.
      So you put down a layer of MOT Type 1 or Limestone Chippings, compact it down thoroughly, followed by a final layer of Granite Dust or Limestone Dust, thoroughly compacted down again.
      Kind regards,

  21. Frank Hennessy

    Can artificial grass be stuck to a granite chip edging. Have tried to secure with U type pins but they bend as the surface below the granite is hard. The lawn was laid 18 months ago and the strong winds have lifted the edges of the lawn. Can you recommend an adhesive that will secure this.

  22. I have installed my grass on a granite dust laying base and then weed membrane then grass on top (nailed to a timber frame). We have just had a good rain downpour and although rain doesn’t seem to be puddling, when you go out a couple of hours later and run your hand back across the grass fibres, it sprays water up as though there is water trapped there. Any ideas??

    • Neo Grass

      Hi Chris,
      You don’t state whether or not you first put down a 50mm layer of MOT Type 1 or not??
      You should have this down first followed by the top layer of 25mm of Granite Dust. Both surfaces are thoroughly compacted down.
      Did you check that the grass was fully porous before you bought it??
      Also, it may have something to do with the type of membrane you have installed. If it is the more hard wearing rubber type then this won’t drain properly, you need to have used a weed membrane such as this one https://neograss.co.uk/product/specialist-artificial-grass-weed-membrane/.
      Kind regards,

  23. Hiya

    Installing our artificial grass, lifted the concrete slabs away to find just sand underneath, we’ve made a timber frame in order to the secure the grass, Was going to fill with sand until levelled out? Then nail it into the timber frame? IS that right and what nails do we use? Any help would be great?

    • Neo Grass

      Hi Richard,
      If your top layer is finished in cement then you will need to glue a foam underlay down first, followed by gluing the grass on top of the underlay.
      If you have a sand top layer then the weed membrane on top of that then you need to secure the grass down properly with artificial grass pins.
      Ideally you should still have some sort of an edging such as concrete haunching in order to fix the edges to something.
      Kind regards,

  24. Hi,

    I am in the process of a garden renovation. I want to raise my garden. Do I need to remove the grass which is there to then put my base layers down, or can I use a weed membrane over the top of the grass, to then add the base layers on top of the grass. Obviously, the process will be followed jn terms of levelling the stone and sand etc.


  25. Hi
    Due to the current situation, we are unable to access a compactor for the sub base, we do however happen to have a very old fashioned heavy iron garden roller which requires two people to lift, will this be ok to use to complete the compaction of the sub by rolling over the sub several times?

  26. Hi, I’m looking to get artificial grass installed but we have dog and want to make sure it doesn’t end up smelling. I’ve read that you should only install polypropylene back grass with no upper weed membrane and then zeolite infill on top of 35mm of sub base grano on top of bottom weed membrane to ensure that dog smells drain away. Does this correct rather than usual 75-100mm grano layer and no top weed membrane?

  27. I am laying a putting green and have built my sub-base up with 1/4” minus this past weekend when the weather was great. It’s supposed to rain all week, is it OK to be exposed to the rain and elements? I still have the final contouring and layering to do, but should I compact it again before continuing to add to the base?

  28. Deborah

    Hi, I’m about to start my DIY grass with second hand grass is there any tips please I need to know specific to old relaying. Plus feeling confused about where or what stage the weed mat goes down ?? Is it first on top of soil but Under the crushed limestone?? Or on top of final layer ??

    • Neo Grass

      Hi Kerry,
      It is okay to leave it rolled up but best to unroll it at least 24 hours before laying if possible to allow the pile to recover slightly.
      Kind regards,

  29. Hi, I am in the process of laying 40 mm of granite stone on top of 75 mm type 1 and I am going tight up to my house and garden walls can I just use 4 inch galvanised nails to secure the artificial turf? Oh and one other thing I didn’t put the weed membrane under the type 1 so can I put it under the granite stone and then another directly under the turf? Thank you.

    • Neo Grass

      Hi Paul,
      Ideally you should still have some kind of concrete haunching to attach the grass to for these areas.
      With regards to the weed membrane then ideally it should have gone down the bottom first but yes on top of that next layer should be okay.
      Don’t put a weed membrane directly under turf if you will have pets on there at all.
      Kind regards,

    • Neo Grass

      Hi John,
      An ideal solution would be to put some kind of battening against the edge that is dropping down two inches and then secure the grass to that before you then continue the same way the other side.
      Kind regards,

  30. I putting down astro on goals mouths. Astro is 3.5 meters wide. Do I dig out out goal mouths to 3.5 meters or less. Should edges be going down on top of natural grass pitch or should it be flush with natural grass.

    • Neo Grass

      Hi Billy,
      If the goal area is 3.5m wide then this is the exact size you need to be looking at.
      Ideally you want the goal area to be flush with the natural grass.
      Kind regards,

  31. Hi! Such a great website, very informative.

    I’m just wondering about attaching grass to existing raised sleepers in my garden – I have read that you can nail through the turf on the sleeper at a 45 degree angle, rather than having to lay timbers inside of these existing sleepers, is this OK?

    Sounds fine, but just worried may pull the turf a little and you may notice the point at which it attaches? Using a 30mm pile so maybe hidden fine?



  32. Regarding the grass frame attached to sleepers – how low/high do you normally go with the frame for the grass the be secured to? Is it personal preference or is there a general rule..? (30mm grass)

    • Neo Grass

      Hi Marc,
      You need to ensure that the sub frame sits almost level with the top of the final layer.
      So you will have a minimum layer of 50mm at the bottom followed by a second minimum layer of 25mm.
      Kind regards,

  33. I have laid down a 8×2 piece of grass I had to buy another one to join to it but the first one I laid is really light and the second is really dark could I have laid it wrong or do you think grass could be different batch

    • Neo Grass

      Hi Liam,
      It could be either really. You should be able to tell if you have laid the grass with the pile running in different directions easily enough.
      If this is okay then it could be the batch numbers are different as you say. You need to check with whoever you bought the grass from.
      Kind regards,

  34. Andrew

    I’m in the process of installing our artificial grass, we’ve used type 1 followed by topping sand, should we sprinkle water on the topping sand before tamping down?
    Many thanks,

    • Neo Grass

      Hi Andrew,
      We don’t generally advise to use sand at all for the final layer.
      We would always suggest using Granite Dust or Limestone Dust and yes, if you sprinkle it with water you will get a really good finish.
      Kind regard,

  35. Hello,

    I’ve found this page and the information you’ve provided very very useful and I felt I needed to ask you a question because you (unlike others) actually respond to the comments.

    I’ve had artificial grass installed, just before the lockdown, and bearing in mind it’s not been down long I can clearly see the joins between each roll that was used. In between these joins is around a 10mm gap which you can clearly see the weed membrane (or whatever it is) beneath the grass. I’ve approached the people who installed it and they’ve said that the joins will always be viewable and the gap is normal! This can’t be right, surely??

    • Neo Grass

      Hi Danny,
      A 10mm gap is not right i’m afraid. There should always be a gap left, but only about 1-2mm to allow for expansion and detraction. Over time that gap should almost be invisible.
      Kind regards,

  36. stephen west

    Hello my sister has just had some artificial grass laid they seem to of done every thing right 100mm type 1 stone 40mm grano dust etc , however they do seem to be a little short roughly 10mm from the paviours in places, so you can actually see the concrete haunch slightly, secondly when you walk along the joint in socks you can feel an edge sticking up probably 10mm wide by 10mm high i suspect the installer has overlapped the edges slightly, he seems reluctant to come back and just keeps saying it will settle down in time, im considering lifting the grass and moving it over myself but i would like to know if the glue would scrape off the back of the grass easily enough at the joint and along where its been fitted to the concrete haunch.? I do not think he actually put any silaca sand on it my other thought is put as much sand on as possible to minimise the sharp edge sticking up, any advise would be much appreciated as the grass alone cost me 1200.00 pound so don’t really want to buy more unless absolutely necessary. I don’t think they will return so down to me i think.
    Thank you Steve

    • Neo Grass

      Hi Stephen,
      It sounds as though they didn’t stretch the grass enough when attaching it. Ideally they should have been using a carpet stretcher.
      You should not be able to feel anything underfoot along the join. When they joined the two pieces together they should have first cut 2-3 weaves in from each side and when they laid the twp pieces back down they should have left a 2mm gap to allow for expansion and detraction.
      You should be able to lift the grass but you will naturally have some residue to contend with.
      We always advise to put the finishing sand on top as it has so many benefits. It keeps the pile more upright, helps with drainage, helps with static and helps to keep the temperature down of the grass.
      Hope all this helps.
      Kind regards,

  37. Isabelle

    Hi, I wish I had read your site first before laying my grass as everwhere I searched they all suggested to use sharp sand on top of MOT type 1 and since laying down my grass I have found tons of ants – is there any way to resolve this without having to remove the sharp sand and replacing with granite dust or limestone?

    Many thanks!

    • Neo Grass

      Hi Isabelle,
      You can go over artificial grass with a weak diluted weed killer. This may solve the problem as it works it’s way down to the bottom of the latex backing.
      Kind regards,

  38. Amazing site and very informative. Do you have any quick tips if a paddling pool has spent 1 or 2 days on the artificial turf and flattened the area slightly? Thanks

    • Neo Grass

      Hi Jack,
      If you can invest in a motorised brush then this will bring the fibres back up and then we would recommend putting some finishing sand back down.
      Kind regards,

  39. Hi,
    My partner and I recently bought a house with an artificial lawn. We like it but would like to add some raised beds. Can we put the beds directly onto the artificial lawn or should we remove the lawn from those areas first?

  40. Chris millington

    I have laid my slabs level with the timber edging I am fixing the grass to i dont like the idea of being and able to see the black bit at the bottom of the grass i should have laid the slabs 5mm higher so that I couldn’t see the bottom of the grass any ideas?

  41. Some people seem to whacker on top of the artificial putting green grass to bend the fibres of grass over to create a more even and faster roll sort of like a green iron does on real grass greens. Would you recommend this?

  42. That ska so much for the great info. I wish I read this first as I did everything right except I rolled out my grass the wrong way. Looks great from my neighbours fence but our view looks like fake grass. I there anyway to enhance the look even though we are facing the grain? I can’t relay as the grass costed thousands and it is already cut in place

    Thank Steve

    • Neo Grass

      Hi Steve,
      So sorry to hear about your situation. There’s really not much you can do other than ensure that the pile is brushed up consistently.
      Applying the sand infill will also help to keep the fibres more upright.
      Kind regards,

  43. Hi there I am installing artificial grass, I have everything prepared as far as the base and wooden frame around the edge, I have had the grass laid out for 24 hours, but there is a metal clothes line post beat the edge of my work area. What is the best way to cut the lawn so that it goes around the post and looks flush. Thank you.

  44. Caroline

    Hi we recently laid artificial grass on our flags and left it a full month due to a combination of poor weather and circumstances didn’t glue it till this week. We just glued the edges and have overdone the glue amount we think and it has raised lumps of where the glue has come through the black base and they are set? Can you help?

    • Neo Grass

      Morning Caroline,
      When gluing the grass directly onto a surface you only need to spread a 200-300mm wide area right around the perimeter edges. This is generally applied with a spatula type implement such as a tile adhesive spreader. It sounds as though you have applied the glue in blobs as you’ve gone round the edges.
      You really need to try and pull up the affected areas and remove as much of the glue as possible before trying to stick down again. The success of this will be measured by the quality of the grass i’m afraid.
      Kind regards,

  45. Hi there,

    We have been getting quotes from multiple providers. One major difference is regarding the perimeter. Some are claiming a slim concrete perimeter is mandatory, so they can glue the edges down fully and ensure there is no lifting (we have dogs). Others are claiming it’s unnecessary and that the pins will suffice around the permitter. It is being installed flush up to multiple wooden retaining walls and one concrete wall.

    The other issue is sand infill. One claims theirs is “non-infill” (it does have a noticeably thicker pile) the other is standard. Your article says there is no such thing as non-infill and is primarily marketing is this still the case? As I said we have dogs, so I will be washing the grass quite a bit and am concerned the sand will wash away over time or congregate in certain areas.

    Any advice is greatly appreciated!!

    • Neo Grass

      Hi Shannon,
      As you have the retaining walls then it will be fine to fix the grass to these retainers. Where you have the concrete wall it is best to run a small haunch and glue the grass to this side.
      When it comes to sanding, we always recommend infilling with Silica Sand no matter what depth of pile it is. The sand has many more advantages as it does disadvantages and whilst you will certainly dislodge some of the sand when washing regularly it is easy to top up as and when you want to. We recommend to top up every couple of years but you can do it more often if you want to.
      Kind regards,

  46. Hi there,

    What is the best way to temporarily lift grass from concrete (i.e. separate the grass from the glue without damaging it)? I have some bumps very close to the edge of my grass and I just want to lift it so that I can stretch it out and glue it back down.

    Thanks, William

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